Notes from the Test Kitchen

a handheld welcome to pie season

Continuing in the spirit of what my friend dubbed last week’s “fish pouch,” I’m bringing you another delightful little food parcel—this time flaky, sweet, and fully edible: the hand pie.

sooooo flaky

I love pie. Streusel-topped, double-crusted, free-form, fruit-filled, custard-filled, even meat-and-veggie savory pies. In place of a wedding cake, we served cherry pie at our wedding. It should not surprise you, then, that I tend to think of November as pie season more than turkey season.

I am a product of the handheld, kid-oriented packaged foods of the ‘90s. (Who didn’t love a Hot Pocket or a Pop-Tart?) Since we know better today, I try to keep those ultra-processed treats out of our pantry. But I’m nostalgic for the handheld goodie. I developed a version of this dish for a restaurant client in Alabama, inspired by the Southern tradition of the fried apple hand pie. They used a store bought pie crust due to volume, but I wanted to create a super buttery, flaky homemade crust for you. After all, the hand pie is really all about the crust.

In order to achieve a *little* wholesomeness and extra flaky layers, I lean on almost 50% whole wheat flour and a LOT of good butter. So yes, there’s fat, but also more fiber, less processed ingredients, more nutrients, etc., etc.

If you’re short on time or patience, you can still make this with store-bought pie dough (here’s a recent Bon Appétit roundup of their preferred brands). Just buy extra, because those are pre-rolled and you will need more than one round. Or, for added flakiness and drama, try with puff pastry. This is technically a turnover—but potato, pot-ah-to.

I must have tested this recipe a half dozen times before I felt it was ready to publish. At some point, I asked my husband if he thought it was “done.” He replied, “I never made something that I didn’t want to keep improving.” 🫠

So, here’s my current best version of the hand pie. I hope you tackle the baking project and share it with those you love.

xx Jenni

the recipe: Spiced Apple Hand Pies

Makes 8