Notes from the Test Kitchen

how we cook our bird + the best dish on the table

team stuffing forever (second only to really good gravy)

Every Thanksgiving I ask myself the same question: Why on earth don’t we eat stuffing all year? It’s everything I love about comfort food—toasted artisanal bread, melted onions, herbs, chicken drippings—yet we treat it like a seasonal exclusive. No more. I’m making the case for year-round stuffing.

If you, too, long for stuffing the rest of the year, or are throwing a small, turkey-free celebration, or (like some of my expat friends) simply can’t get your hands on a bird, this recipe is for you. And good news for the traditionalists: this is how we roast the big bird, too.

One simple technique with a memorable name—the spatchcock—has solved one of the great Thanksgiving debates: stuffing inside the bird, or on the side?

The problem with stuffing inside the bird is that, to cook it through, you end up overcooking the meat. But cooking it separately (which, technically, is called dressing) means missing out on all those incredible, roasty juices.

The solution? Spatchcock the bird, then roast it right on top of the stuffing. Spatchcocking means removing the backbone so a bird can be flattened for faster, more even roasting. As the meat cooks, its juices baste and season the bread below. Once the bird is perfectly cooked, simply lift it off and finish crisping the stuffing as the meat rests. Perfectly cooked turkey and the most moist, flavorful stuffing. Win-win.

Once you learn the technique, I think you’ll turn to it often. One weeknight favorite that takes advantage of a spatchcocked bird is this one I wrote for Smithey: instead of stuffing, roasted potatoes and onions soak up all of those glorious pan drippings. I recommend you add it to your rotation.

How to Spatchcock

Place the whole chicken on a cutting board breast-side down. Cut along one side of the backbone with sharp kitchen shears, starting at the tailbone and ending at the neck, until the chicken opens. Repeat on the other side until the backbone is free. (Discard or save for making stock). Now the interior of the breastbone is exposed. Use the tip of a sharp knife and make a small score down the center (this is optional but will make the next step easier). Press firmly on the breastbone with both hands until it pops and the chicken lays flat.

A few tools make this process smoother: truly sharp shears and a reliable instant-read thermometer. I’ve had my Messermeister shears since culinary school (16 years!) and they’re still workhorses. We also have a great pair from OXO. As for thermometers, nothing beats the Thermapen.

Stuffing is too good to be a once-a-year event. Now you have the technique (and permission) to make it any time you want. I’m thankful for you all being here—happy Thanksgiving!

xx Jenni

the recipe: Spatchcock Chicken & Stuffing