Notes from the Test Kitchen
the cake for any occasion or season
As I waited for the second test of my pistachio cake to come out of the oven last week, I received Bon Appetit’s email titled “We’re obsessed with this pistachio cake”—well, SAME.
The origin of this cake is not from Bon App, but rather the Chez Panisse Almond Cake that was adapted for NYT Cooking by Melissa Clark. I make that cake a lot, as a casual dinner party dessert or a simple birthday cake for a friend.
I wanted to try this cake with pistachios, because I love the nut and Melissa says you can. After trying it a few times I made some adjustments; namely, whole wheat flour in place of all-purpose, which has become modus operandi in our house. When writing recipes for you all, I do not test with freshly milled flour (because 0.001% of you do that), but I do like King Arthur’s Organic Whole Wheat Flour, which is what I used in this cake. The nuttiness of the whole wheat flour echoes the nuttiness of the pistachios, pushing the needle gently toward the savory to make this a cake for any time of day. It’s elegant enough when garnished to be a special occasion cake, but it’s really a snacking cake at heart. We carve off little slices all day long.
My oldest says it tastes like a pistachio macaron and an almond croissant had a baby. Can you think of a bigger compliment?
This recipe relies on a food processor, as you’ll be making pistachio paste from scratch. I’ve had this 14-cup Cuisinart for years—maybe a decade—and it still works beautifully. I replaced the blade once during that tenure, as it inevitably dulled after extensive use. (Did you know you can buy replacement parts? It’s a great way to keep your small appliances alive and well for much longer).
Some other recipes that I make in my food processor include: pie dough, my favorite pecan butter (to turn into these grain-free pecan blondies or these delicious coconut-pecan protein bars), our family’s Christmas coffee cakes, homemade nutella, pistachio pesto, and salsa macha. If you like to cook with nuts, you’ll want one.
This cake works any time of year. Top the whipped cream with cherry compote in the fall, lemon curd or fresh citrus segments in the winter, ripe peaches in the summer. But Charleston’s strawberry season—arguably my favorite local food moment (sorry, softshells)—has just begun, and I love the combination of sweet, juicy strawberries, luxurious whipped cream, and rich, salty pistachios.
Before we go, I’ve decided to add a new section to Notes from the TK…
Things I’ve Tried Recently
I’ve never been a journaler (my poor kids have empty baby books) but this section is like my shorthand kitchen journal, a record of things I cooked or ate and took inspiration from. Because there’s a lot of great recipes out there, and it’s nice to have someone test drive them first!
Spaghetti Carbonara (Ian Fisher, NYT Cooking) - this was the biggest dinnertime success I’ve had in weeks. It came together in 15 minutes, from things I already had, and all five of us devoured it. I’m inspired to create a new version for an upcoming newsletter!
Slow-Cooked Pork Shoulder with Balsamic Glaze (Eric Kim, Food52) - I pulled out the slow cooker last week because we had a really busy week of after-school activities and house guests. We ate this recipe as is, sliced alongside brown rice and sautéed broccoli, then shredded it for weekend lunch quesadillas, then finally chopped what was left and seasoned for tacos. Big hit all around.
Grapefruit Sorbet with Condensed Milk currently on the dessert menu at The Ordinary. Garnished with toasted benne seeds. Holy moly.
Corto Olive Oil - I did an olive oil tasting with my friend, Chef Whitney Otawka, and I was blown away by the freshness and nuanced flavor of their fall harvest olive oil.
Until next time,
xx Jenni
the recipe: Pistachio Cake with Strawberries & Cream
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